Newfoundland is a large rock island with roughly 500,000 inhabitants, 51% of which live on the Avalon Peninsula located at the southeastern tip of the Rock. This peninsula stretches east farther than any land in North America, and the easternmost point lies at Cape Spear. I am 3 1/2 hours or 2,408 miles from home (time zone wise) and 3 1/2 hours or 2,330 miles from London. So I’m closer to London at this moment than to home.


The Avalon Peninsula is almost entirely made of rock and there is no shoreline or beach to speak of, except in tiny pockets here and there. There are small inlets and coves, cracks in the Rock, that provide protection from the sea and access to the land on the cliffs above. Until halfway through this century the island didn’t have any roads and everyone traveled to and from work, to other villages and to the biggest city, St. John’s all by boat.


Life was pulled, literally, from the sea with men spending long days fishing to harvest enough cod to sell for income and support their families. Cod was salted to preserve it. The growing season is too short to allow for much variety in the foods you could grow. Potatoes, cabbage, and turnips were mainstays. Each little cove was settled and a village built and a small harbor built to accommodate all the villagers dories.


The Irish Loop (#10) rings the coast of the peninsula and offers access to a number of these villages including, Petty Harbor, Ferryland, Fermeuse, St. Michaels, and more. Each has its own character which was formed by many things – the nationality of the settler, their religion, the size of the fjord which meant more space for more people and many other things. Ferryland was one of the original settlements and was a major fishing harbor in the late 1500s. The town is now listed on the National Historic Register.

New friends Murph and Danielle gave me the royal treatment and took a day showing me the eastern side of the peninsula. The land and coast are incredibly beautiful, rugged and wild. I’m immersed in incredible lessons this day – lessons of language and culture, history and politics, people and food. I’m a sponge and loving every minute and detail and most of all loving the good people who are my tour guides today. I’m so engrossed in the stories that I don’t pay attention to how tired I am and don’t realize it until I’m back in for the night. What a beautiful day! Thanks so much Danielle and Murph!

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  1. What a treat to follow your journey…I love the spirit of your adventure. A friend told me about your story. I wish I had met you when you lived here. I am in Rapid City, went for a beautiful ride today in the hills. Cool and cloudy. Soon the hills will be alive with sound of motorcycles. Everything is in transition to welcome friends from all over the world. I guess that explains why I love the rally, as we get to show off Black Hills. Feels like I am also on vacation.
    I am admiring you from a distance, what happened to you has been part of your journey, and I am happy tp follow you along your successful chapter in this is your life.
    South Dakota says Hello…..

    • Thanks so much for your message, Kristi, you made my day! Maybe some day we will get to ride together when I come home as its always great to meet fellow riders. In the meantime, wishing you a wonderful rally and great riding in the Black Hills. There aren’t many places as gorgeous to ride as home.

  2. SC,

    I’m catching your tale in midstride while surfing around looking for info on beach glass here in Newfoundland. I’ve been to Cape Spear and actually made a cell call from the pathway up to the old lighthouse. (Had to call my wife who was home at her mother’s in Mt. Pearl.) Also been to Petty Harbour. Took a cruise to see the Puffins down in Witless Bay.

    Hope you are doing well.


    • Thanks for your message! I hope you’re enjoying Newfoundland, and it sounds like you are. Hard to believe it’s been almost two years since I left there. I just finished my journey to South America and returned home to South Dakota about a month ago and am doing well, thank you. And after all that time Newfoundland is still one of my favorite places in all the world. Wishing you more happy memories in your travels.

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