Downeast Maine and the coast


It’s been more than 3 months since I left the United States, a much longer exit than I had expected but that I also enjoyed more than I ever would have guessed was possible.  I’ve been winding my way toward home, using that word in the broader sense, because I’m not actually heading for home-home, South Dakota. I’m coming back to the United States. The nearest boarder to the coast roads I’ve been enjoying in eastern Canada is at Calais, Maine. So on a Tuesday afternoon, I head into St. Stephens, New Brunswick and find the street that leads through downtown and toward the bridge that crosses the St. Croix River and back into the United States. There’s a plaque on the bridge that marks the line between the United States and our incredible northern neighbor, Canada.
the International Boundary on the bridge
Customs clears me quickly since I ate all my food at the last rest area. Chatting with the guys at the border is fun, and they joke about the government shutdown and not getting paid. You have to love good people who take things all in stride. About an hour across the border is the easternmost point in the United States near Lubec, Maine. The Quoddy Head lighthouse looks east toward Grand Manan which is an island that belongs to Canada. From the Canada side earlier in the day I was able to look over at the US from many different spots, and in some places the other side was close enough to swim to.
Quoddy Head, ME
The lighthouse is closing when I arrive, but the sun is up and I still have time to take photos. Then off to Lubec a few miles back from where I came and into Cohill’s for dinner. A local woman stops by with her dog, Tanner, who I understand drops by every night for a treat. Tanner lets me say hello and I am the honorary treat giver for the night with a piece of my burger finding a good home in his tummy. He makes me happy…I’m still missing my True every day.
Tanner stopping by Cohill's for a treat
There are seals playing in the whirlpool created by the outgoing tide tonight. Five or six of them keep surfacing and swimming around and gulls bob up and down on the surface.
Lubec, ME
After a good night of camping and a beautiful sunset, it’s a beautiful morning for a ride along the coast. I’m headed for Acadia National Park, something that has been on my “must see” list for many years. But as I have already been warned, the parks are closed because of the government shutdown in the U.S. I already hold a national parks pass and am tempted to just go for a short ride through the park, but in the end, am respectful of the posted signs and leave this beautiful part of the world on the list for another day.
Schoodic location - Maine
Since Acadia was closed, I have a little time to spend today and choose to stop in Bar Harbor for some lunch. The locals call it Baa Haa Baa and make me think they sound a lot like Boston-ers, but I’m guessing they all sound like New England-ers. The town is packed with people in town from a cruise ship parked in the bay. It’s a cute town but a little touristy for me today.
Bar Harbor, ME
The colors are changing all along the roads and have been for a couple of weeks now. Maine has beautiful trees and lots of them in their full autumn glory, while others are more subtle and soft.
Maine near covered bridge
There’s a quaint and lovely town south of Bangor along the coast called Wiscasset, located just before you cross over the bridge toward Boothbay Harbor. I was headed to Boothbay for lunch but stop instead at Wiscasset. There was a large deck on the waterfront covered with tables and umbrellas and few different shacks cooking fresh seafood. A Captain Eli’s blueberry soda and crab roll (instead of lobster roll) is the perfect combination of local treats for lunch.
Wiscasset, ME
Heading for a new friend’s place tonight, after a quick stop in Freeport. I can’t wait to meet Miss Molly and enjoy some more of Maine.

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2 comments

  1. Hey Michelle. On behalf of all Canadian’s, I wish you well as you continue on your way. Safe travels my friend. Cheers. Bruce Sharone Austin and Madisyn.

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