Running out of land in southern Chile, almost time for a boat


Just west of Valdivia is a small town, Niebla, out on the coast where we stop to see the shore and the ruins of an old Spanish fort from the 1500s, but it’s closed for renovations.

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The bridges in Latin America have almost all been named, all the way since Mexico. Sometimes they are named after the river and sometimes after people or important dates.  Since “pay” is pronounced like “pie” back home I think this one near Valdivia is called Cutie Pie Bridge.

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We ride on to Osorno and camp at the municipal park…and go in search of tires for the bikes before the Carretera Austral and Ruta 40 in Argentina.  The bikes haven’t been to a shop since leaving the USA nearly 19 months ago because Brian has done all the work, tire changes or otherwise.  But since we are hoping to make up some time we opt for Motoaventuras to install the new tires for us.  What a great crew in Osorno!

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Then we move on to Puerto Varas for a night.  It’s a beautiful town on the shores of a lake and back in the distance we see Volcan Osorno covered with snow on top.  It’s gorgeous….families vacation and relax on the beach, food trucks cater to hungry visitors and sporting goods shops stock people up before their adventures.

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There’s a North Face shop on the corner of the main square and across from it a United Colors of Benetton shop…these were started by Doug Tompkins and his wife respectively.  Doug Tompkins owns an enormous amount of land in Chile and Argentina and has worked to accumulate large tracts of it that he has donated to Chile for national parks. Interesting to read up on some of the story behind these people who started brands I have recognized for years.

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The next morning we ride to Puerto Montt and then on to the coast to catch a ferry to the island of Chiloe.

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I laugh when I read that they charge more for a yak than a bike.

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